“On the rocky road to Dublin…” (Dublin: April 13-15)

The final Ireland post!! It might be a bit long, but it’s all contained here. Remember...click on the pics to enlarge!! J

On our first day, we visited Trinity College and the Book of Kells! A couple pieces of background information – I’ve been practicing calligraphy for about 10 years now. I wrote a paper on the style of ornamentation in the Book of Kells. And this was one of the MAIN reasons why I wanted to come to Ireland in the first place!!!! (So, as you can imagine, I was really only moderately excited to see this manuscript in person…;-)

Trinity College campus.

 

The exhibit, “Turning Darkness Into Light,” explores illuminated manuscripts in general, but the Book of Kells is the obvious highlight. It is one of the most lavishly illuminated manuscripts in existence (and definitely the most ornamented Gospel book in the British Isles). Some interesting points: 

• Created ca. 800
• Survived numerous raids by Vikings (900 was a BAD year)
• Was presented to Trinity College in 1661
• Ornamentation is based on pre-Christian, “pagan” motifs (especially interlacing knotwork, spirals, and animals) 

These are the two decorated pages we saw (there were also two text pages):

Portrait of St Matthew (folio 28v)

Liber generationis, opening words of
St Matthew’s Gospel (folio 29r)

 At the end of the exhibit, we got to look at the pages. They are quite dark with age, but an amazing amount of detail has been preserved. You can see the minutest decorations…:-D We couldn’t admire the pages for long, though – you take your turn quickly, and let the next visitor take your place…:-S

We also passed through the Long Room of the oldest library at Trinity. Now that’s MY idea of a library…(cough…Taylor Digital Library, U of C…;-)

Since we still had the car, in the afternoon we drove to Newgrange. Newgrange itself is the name of a prehistoric monument called a “passage tomb”, which is a huge mound of earth containing one or more passages leading to inner chambers at the centre. The passages themselves are often aligned so that the sun shines into the passageway at significant times of the year, such as at the winter solstice or the equinoxes. However,  Newgrange is only one passage tomb in the surrounding area of Brú na Bóinne (containing many other tombs, standing stones, and henges). It’s one of Ireland’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Side of Knowth large passage tomb.

Smaller "satellite tombs" around the large passage tomb.

Newgrange seen from a distance.

The large passage tomb at Knowth.

The tour to the Newgrange tomb was full (it’s more famous and you get to walk inside), but we signed up to visit Knowth, which even larger than Newgrange. I think the highlight of the trip was seeing the huge array of Neolithic art. The stones surrounding the large passage tomb all had abstract designs that are amazingly well-preserved.

Neolithic art!

The passage inside (not safe for public).

The large tomb has two passages leading to inner chambers. Archaeologists have found cremated remains, suggesting that this was a ritualistic or sacred area rather than a mere tomb. Over time, the entrances to both passages were blocked, and later generations built structures on top of the mound, since the hill allowed a commanding view over the countryside. Major excavations of Knowth began in 1962.

If the bus says it, can we say we've been there?

The rest of our trip was more relaxed – we spent a lot of time walking around the city. I met up with my friend C, a fellow violist who is originally from Dublin but whom I first met in Graz. We went to her orchestra’s concert on the Saturday, which was a lot of fun! (They played excerpts from “The Planets”…J)

Fancy breakfast at the Queen of Tarts!

 

Christ Church Cathedral.

 

On the bus.

The Molly Malone statue.

 

 

St. Patrick's Cathedral Gardens.

 

Downtown Dublin.

A and the River Liffey.

The River Liffey from O'Connell Bridge.

We also visited:

• The Kilmainham Gaol – A prison established in 1796 in the hopes of replacing the old jail and its squalid, overcrowded conditions. However, Kilmainham also became overcrowded, with no gender segregation. Many prisoners were deported to Australia, and during the potato famine of 1845-1852, some people committed petty crimes just to receive the jail’s scanty (but regular) meal portions. Many political prisoners during the 1916 Easter Rising were jailed here.

 

 

Many filmmakers have used this
as a set (Italian Job, anyone?)

 

• The Guinness Factory – The #1 Dublin attraction! My favourite parts were seeing how they make the beer, and watching the art of cooperage (wooden barrel-making).